Gulmarg is an average picturesque ski town – if you took that town and transported it 2600m up into a war-torn and neglected part of India. And while war-torn may have been more accurate 10 years ago, the evidence of Kashmir’s violent past is everywhere. Bombed-out shells of buildings that would have housed whole families, […]

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Everyone says that India is an assault on the senses, and when everyone says something it’s usually because it’s true. Delhi does not disappoint. Even the air in the cabin of our 747 became heavy and aromatic as we taxied towards the terminal. The arrival area is chaotic, but this is not unusual for any […]

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